Asylum is a short film about every surfers inner demons, any real surfer will tell you that if they haven't surfed for a while they start going mental, and they only feel sane again once they get back into the water. That's the case for Nicole in this video, shes stuck in a dark place aimlessly going nowhere, until surfing starts returning to her life and she quickly becomes happy and starts seeing the beauty in the world... Only problem is, she really is trapped in an insane asylum.
Myself and Matt Van Wieringen went searching for waves, what we found was a 17 hour car ride, shit waves and we had to borrow terrible surfboards, so we dropped in on each other all day. After a 17 hour drive back I edited this video(I also filmed this shit), and then I figured out why this was such a bad video... I filmed the video (I usually surf), and Matt VW surfed in the video (he usually films). So thats the excuse, now stop reading and go watch something else.
*This video is a joke and shouldn't be taken seriously.*
Then, 6 years ago, and Now, 1 year ago, are pretty different times, although they are actually very similar in that I still love surfing and still surf 3 hours a day, but very different when you compare the surfing. And one thing that gets me excited is that the difference in my surfing from this video to now (1 year later) is pretty massive. But for now I hope you enjoy this, the old stuff like that one turn I claimed is pretty funny, so sit back and enjoy.
This was my first major injury, I did a pretty large air (skateboarding) and rolled my ankle really badly, I tore all the ligaments in my ankle and bruised some bones quite badly. I was supposed to stay out of the water for 8 - 12 weeks but with the help of PRP injections I could start paddling out again in 7 weeks. And then a ton of rehab and just ignoring all the pain I was back to normal in about 10 weeks, and pain free in about 16 weeks.
I made this video as a joke but people liked it so I guess I'll keep it.
(Don't worry, there is surfing if you wait a minute, its not all shit)
This DAVEY surfboard (like all of them are) was amazing, it seemed to always want to rip every wave from 1ft to 8ft. And after more than a year of it being there for me it finally, unfortunately, gave way and broke. So I decided to pay it some respect and throw together some clips that it collected during its life.
Myself and Bruce Collingwood having fun in windy closeouts. Definitely not the worst surf ever, it was actually really fun, but what ever. All I know is that after this surf I had a lot of salt water pouring out of my nose for the rest of the day.